“Holy, holy, holy, is the LORD of hosts: the whole earth is
full of his glory.”
—Isaiah 6.3
Kadosh
I traced the ancient fingerprints in
the slickness of the massive stones. Here a man had borne longing.
Here a son had borne the same. Here a son’s son also. I bowed
my head against the stones, adding a miniscule amount of yearning’s tangible
trace to the stones long slick with prayer. There was something poignant
about praying into a wall, about acting on hope while facing futility,
especially considering that this was where a peculiar people had literally done
so for almost two thousands of years—it was here that they had come to pulse
prayers through their fingertips, and here to store their wails and why within
the stone; and here that they had told a history of exile in the silent glaze
of once rough lime, the color of old Torah scrolls; it was here to this very
spot that they had come, because there was no closer place to holy nor a closer
thing than holiness to Home. Ache entered
through my fingers. I wished that I
could wholly grasp that slickness, but I knew I couldn’t, so with fingertips
and forehead, I pressed into the Western Wall again.
* * *
The
Western Wall, or Wailing Wall, is the closest thing to where the Temple was,
which is why nothing is more holy, more kadosh, to the Jews who worship
there. That house of the Most High stood until 70 CE, when Rome realized
the Jews would never accept their rule, especially not here in their homeland
and absolutely not here near their temple, which charged them with a crackling
zeal, a zeal which lashed in blinding arcs from revolt to revolt against
Rome. One of these revolts finally
provoked Rome to storm the Holy City with so many legionnaires that though they
could be defied and were they could not be deterred and weren’t. The
Jewish resistance was decimated and the Temple demolished and the first of half
a hundred generations sent off to their wanderings, which began in Yavneh, a
place, as Rome would learn, still too close to Jerusalem and its humming wreck
of sacred stones. After the Bar-Kokhba
Revolt, which ended in 135 CE, Rome had learned, and so the Jews were
scattered, not merely from Jerusalem but from Israel altogether. Scattered, the last of Israel’s tribes.
For the next two millennia the people of Judah were persecuted for coming
to places they weren’t welcome, which they could not help but do because they
were not welcome anywhere.
Until
Spain: there they found a refuge and perhaps, they thought, a home, until
Columbus sailed the ocean blue. That
year the climate of the court changed too, such that after centuries of safety,
the Jews found themselves adrift again, and aimless—there were no other harbors
in existence. Our professor of Judaism in
the Jerusalem Center tried to convey the effect of the expulsion from Spain: “It
is considered one of the three great calamities of our people,” he said—the
second, actually. The first was the destruction of the Temple. The Shoah
was the third.
* * *
After I had prayed, I crossed the broad clearing before
the Wall and joined some friends. A somber haze hung in the evening air:
I recognized it from a week ago: I’d woke up to the oriental, exotic Call to
Prayer, ventured groggily onto a balcony, and seen the Holy City, all dust-blown
and amber and shrouded with sunrise. O for more sober stirring
amber. My friends had been writing
prayers to put between the seams of the Wall and asked if I had written mine
already. My prayer—no, I hadn’t written it. I wasn’t sure
what it was. I had to figure out what it
meant to write it too. When they asked me about it I remembered hearing,
as a kid, of a place where people scrolled up their holiest hopes and placed
them in a wall, though I’d had no idea why they would put them there, which is
probably why it stuck with me. Having felt the Wall though, I felt I knew
something of why.
I looked up, prompted by an elbow in my side, to see my friend looking pointedly towards an austere looking man. Apparently he was policing the promenade, which overlooked the clearing before the Wall, to ensure no one violated the Sabbath, by writing, say, which was a form of work. I looked around at the sky, which was still that stirring amber. True, a maze of beige buildings hid the sun in the west, but that didn’t mean that it had set. A different Jewish man apparently shared my opinion—he was writing nearby—so once the stern man passed I also wrote my prayer.
Returning to the Wall was more difficult, now that the sun had almost set, which is when Shabbat begins. A throng was slowly forming in the clearing. As I worked my way east, I was temporarily stunned by a passerby’s cylindrical hat, which was as broad as his shoulders, upright, and spooled with something like fur. His forelocks dangled like coiling springs beside his ears: Haredi—ultra-orthodox—the most inflexibly obedient of the Jews. Everyone at the Wall covered their heads out of respect, but most Jews, as well as visitors like my friends and I, wore the much less conspicuous kipas—small, circular caps. Perhaps the man wanted to do more than the minimum for God.
By the time I got to the Wall, black-robed figures had formed dozens of lines before it, each five or six deep. I only wanted to place my tiny, crinkled prayer in the Wall, so I quickly slipped between two lines to do so, then stopped, abruptly, stunned: the Wall was full. I looked up and down a four-foot vertical seam, hoping for the space to wedge a single, sacred spitwad. Not a prayer. I don’t know how I hadn’t noticed the paper prayers earlier, while I had read in Braille of all those times the words had failed. They were everywhere, tats of white and pink and yellow pleas compressed as much as possible. I walked twenty feet in both directions, weaving in and out of worshippers—some muttering scripture in haunting, Hebraic tones—ran my eyes along the only horizontal crease in reach. Prayers burst the entire way like popcorn, littering the ground like the floor of an emptied theater. No space, no hope.
The Wall had stirred me like an ocean floor; as sediment swirled, I glimpsed beneath. I had tried to pray for the peace of Jerusalem, spent some ink and space for her sake, but a deeper void or prayer had poured out through my pen. I wrote what I wanted more than anything on that paper, and now my hopes felt threatened by the way the Wall was full. I read through my prayer, needing to sacrifice everything that I possibly could. Then I tore it down to the two words that I couldn’t: “Reach me.”
I looked up, prompted by an elbow in my side, to see my friend looking pointedly towards an austere looking man. Apparently he was policing the promenade, which overlooked the clearing before the Wall, to ensure no one violated the Sabbath, by writing, say, which was a form of work. I looked around at the sky, which was still that stirring amber. True, a maze of beige buildings hid the sun in the west, but that didn’t mean that it had set. A different Jewish man apparently shared my opinion—he was writing nearby—so once the stern man passed I also wrote my prayer.
Returning to the Wall was more difficult, now that the sun had almost set, which is when Shabbat begins. A throng was slowly forming in the clearing. As I worked my way east, I was temporarily stunned by a passerby’s cylindrical hat, which was as broad as his shoulders, upright, and spooled with something like fur. His forelocks dangled like coiling springs beside his ears: Haredi—ultra-orthodox—the most inflexibly obedient of the Jews. Everyone at the Wall covered their heads out of respect, but most Jews, as well as visitors like my friends and I, wore the much less conspicuous kipas—small, circular caps. Perhaps the man wanted to do more than the minimum for God.
By the time I got to the Wall, black-robed figures had formed dozens of lines before it, each five or six deep. I only wanted to place my tiny, crinkled prayer in the Wall, so I quickly slipped between two lines to do so, then stopped, abruptly, stunned: the Wall was full. I looked up and down a four-foot vertical seam, hoping for the space to wedge a single, sacred spitwad. Not a prayer. I don’t know how I hadn’t noticed the paper prayers earlier, while I had read in Braille of all those times the words had failed. They were everywhere, tats of white and pink and yellow pleas compressed as much as possible. I walked twenty feet in both directions, weaving in and out of worshippers—some muttering scripture in haunting, Hebraic tones—ran my eyes along the only horizontal crease in reach. Prayers burst the entire way like popcorn, littering the ground like the floor of an emptied theater. No space, no hope.
The Wall had stirred me like an ocean floor; as sediment swirled, I glimpsed beneath. I had tried to pray for the peace of Jerusalem, spent some ink and space for her sake, but a deeper void or prayer had poured out through my pen. I wrote what I wanted more than anything on that paper, and now my hopes felt threatened by the way the Wall was full. I read through my prayer, needing to sacrifice everything that I possibly could. Then I tore it down to the two words that I couldn’t: “Reach me.”
C.
S. Lewis once said that God, who dwells outside of time, answers every prayer
as if it were the only one in existence.
He is like an author who can stop writing, to consider a prayer and a
pray-er for an eternity, before answering the moment He is asked. I
wonder about those other prayers, those other words they hold: like the sands of
the sea or clouds of desert stars, they are not known nor numbered, nor could
they be by me. I wonder at the One who reads
them all, who is therefore worth worshipping, as the Mezuzah says, with all thy
heart and soul and might—which explains why frizzy-bearded elders bob so oddly
before the Wall, whipping from their knees, to their waist, to their neck, then
head, towards what they hold most holy. They repeat and repeat and repeat
it, with heart and soul and might, with all, because that is how you love the
one whose name is Endless; the One whose love was like that first—that’s why he
is to whom you pray, even if his inbox looks full.
* * *
Jerusalem
was ruled by Rome until the 7th
century CE, when Islam swept west from Arabia across northern Africa.
Muslims venerate Jerusalem as the place where Abraham offered Ishmael,
his oldest son, and where Muhammad ascended to the Seven Heavens, spoke to God,
and returned with instructions for the faithful. The Dome of the Rock now
enshrines the stone where his feet left the earth. The Jews believe that
same stone to be where the heart of their temple, the Holy of Holies, had
stood. Some Christians believe Abraham offered Isaac in the same spot.
The only thing anyone seems to agree on is that this place is holy.
And
alas for the fertility of holy ground, for mingled seeds of strife and
sacredness: how can it be that here of all places such conflicts have come to
fruition? The crusaders took Jerusalem around 1100 CE, then mercilessly
slaughtered the Holy City’s civilians, even the Arabs who were Christian.
For some reason they spared the Dome of the Rock, topping its great,
golden semi-sphere with a cross rather than eradicating it, two hundred years
before Muslim forces would return to reclaim Jerusalem. Suleiyman the Magnificent, builder of the
mighty crenellations and walls and gates about Jerusalem, also allowed free
worship, such that one might find a mosque and cathedral and synagogue all on
the same street. Eight centuries of Muslim rule ended with World
War I, when the Ottoman Empire, which had coerced the Palestinians to fight for
them, fell beside Germany and the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Britain took
Palestine, the Holy Land, from the Ottomans, and governed it as a protectorate.
So the unfortunate Palestinians lost a war that wasn’t theirs, and thus
lost a land that was.
Not
long after all civilized peoples had been staggered into silence, as the world
learned of the Shoah, Britain pulled out of Palestine to let the Jews who had
taken refuge there fight with the Palestinians for their homeland. Yes,
“their” homeland. Both sides fought for their homeland, both watered holy
ground with blood, but only the Jews won.
* * *
In
a crack within a seam, I wedged my prayer, then sidled through the crowd back
toward my friends. Things were beginning to feel chaotic. Groups of
black-clad worshippers clumped around rabbis who read from Torah scrolls while
a variety of hymns from different groups collided in the air, mixed further
with loud calls in Hebrew between friends and even the mirthful shouts of
dancers. Everyone seemed to be saying “Shabbat Shalom!” “Peace upon
the Sabbath,” literally, and “Welcome,” commonly. Several times it was
meant for me: I heard it first from a guy that I’d bumped into, who said it
merrily while he waved away my apology; second, from a man with a long, grey
beard and kindly crinkles near his eyes—I’d stepped aside to let him and his
grandson (I’m guessing) go by. The four- or five-year-old surveyed the
atmosphere around him with brown, orblike eyes, tentatively clapping his free
hand to the one his grandfather held in imitation of the crowd, now enjoying an
energetic tune. And I received a few
“Shabbat Shaloms” after I tried greeting people in Hebrew too, which often
uncorked too much for me to handle. “No! I don’t speak Hebrew,” I’d have
to laugh as I explained myself, “I’m just visiting,” which, I noted, never
changed the tone of welcome. One of my friends must have looked
particularly Jewish. Once, after greeting an old man, the man deeply said,
“Welcome home.”
Eventually,
I ended up in one of the circles of dancing Jews. It was a lot like
playing ring-around-the-rosies in elementary school, except here we played in
Hebrew. Also, some people had assault rifles. The military guys
unnerved me a little, until one guy, who didn’t have green fatigues and black
boots and a rifle on his back, was so friendly and enthusiastic as he
encouraged me to join, that I did. I noticed my friend Dan Jones jumping
around, arm in arm with them already and hollering his best imitation of
Hebrew—which was passable, or at least inaudible—to tunes he didn’t know, and
remembered, “I know some Hebrew too...”
Besides
the assault rifle issue, I had been worried about respecting this place.
We were probably fifty feet away from the Wailing Wall now—I could still
see people illuminated in yellow cones of light, bobbing with their hearts and
minds and strengths. Clearly, this clearing was for worship, though what
that meant was not so clear. I thought I
could understand all these groups, to some degree. I had sought salvation in obedience with
exactness, in the letter of the law; and I had failed and felt forlorn; then I
had tried forgetting the law, the impossible burden, and just do the feeble
good that I could manage. Lately I had immersed
myself in scripture, hoping its spirit would change me. I wasn’t sure what really worked though—though
how I looked and labored, heavy laden—so I wasn’t sure what to do with
conflicts between modes of worship. It
was then, while I stood wondering whether dancing were appropriate, that the
grandfather and grandson, clapping, had stepped by. After greeting me, the
elder looked to the circle of bounding and laughing Jews, who were about my
age. I watched him carefully. Light buoyed within his eyes. That was good enough for me.
And
I am grateful that it was, because I can still remember one of the tunes, I
hear it as I write this, a year and a half later; I can still remember circulating
arm-in-arm, laughing and singing and dancing to the point of exhaustion, shouting
as we’d suddenly reverse our direction, or strike up a new tune. I remember the clap on my back as I was
brought into the circle—a holy clap, to me—and wondering if my idea of worship
was not a bit too somber. I remember
many things, but mostly, the face of a boy.
I
saw him before the bobbing began in earnest, or the grandfather passed with his
grandson, or the dancing swept me up. I had just stepped back from the
Wall with ache still in me from my fingertips.
I wondered at the slickness. How long they had hoped for Home? How much hope was there for it? Can we hope without hope? I was so absorbed
that for a while I couldn’t even see the Wall, or the crowd, which milled and
murmured about me, as it was beginning to be.
Then I returned to my sight, and part of the blur before my eyes became
a boy. About sixteen and just barely
unhandsome—his nose just too upturned, his cheeks just over-round. I’m not sure that he saw the crowd, nor do I
think that they saw him. They bustled
and surged—rushing off to hear their rabbi, or write their prayers, or sing
their scriptures, or bob before the Wall, worship in whatever way that they
thought best—but he just stood and faced the stones. He looked so unremarkable that at first I
looked right past him. Then something
tugged my gaze back to his face, where I found the whole history of his people
and a feeling beyond words. He was
crying.
Holy
Quds